Travel Musings: My Eats in Busan 2014

Even for Koreans, Busan has long been associated with three stereotypical things: beaches (mostly just Haeundae), hwe (sashimi), and thick Gyeongsan accents (including certain fantasies non-Gyeongsando-ites have about folks of the opposite gender who do have this accent).

More a summer curiosity than anything, the other aspects of Busan has mostly been overlooked as it remains overshadowed by central figure, Seoul. But Busan has undergone a renaissance in recent years as it looks to carve and stake a name and place for itself. The result has been a fascinating and contrasting mix of old and new and I was definitely excited to see how things had changed since 2 years prior when I had last visited South Korea's number two city.

Four of us decided on a rather impromptu, three days and two nights trip to Busan in late summer/early fall last year (yes, I know, another very late post). In reality though, because of the 6 hour drive down on one day and 6 hour drive back up another, it was more like one full day in Busan sadly.

Nevertheless, we left early afternoon in Seoul and after the long drive down to the port city, we checked in and immediately headed to our choice for dinner. Before embarking on our trip I had compiled a list of places to check out and this AYCE (all-you-can-eat) eel spot, called Tongyeong Jangeo Moohan Refill (or "통영장어무한리필").  caught our interest as it had been featured on a number of local TV shows and seemed to draw some hot reviews. .

The rules are simple, pay 21,900 a head and for 2 hours, you'll get unlimited refills of freshly prepared eel, and sides, until you can eat no more. For 25,900, you can get unlimited refills of shellfish (clams, mussels, etc) with your AYCE eel for 2 hours too (no takeouts allowed and leftovers incurs charges).



We were rather pumped for the challenge, not to mention starving, so we confidently headed over here talking about all the eels that were gonna end up in our belly.

After putting in our order, we heard the staff get busy in the back kitchen before the servers brought out the sides and fixings. It's actually not that wide of a spread consisting of a bubbling pot of dwenjang jjigae, various dipping sauces, country-style dwenjang and ssamjang, kkaetnip janagchi (pickled perilla leaves), chives, ginger slices, and lettuce for wraps.





As for the eels, they were absolutely fresh. How do I know this? The sliced and prepped eels were still slightly twitching with some of the bloodier parts (nerves?) actually throbbing. I'm usually not too squeamish about these kind of tank-to-table service in Korea but I must admit seeing parts of the eel kind of pulsate was a bit unnerving. But once we got over that, we were surprised at just the sheer amount of eel that was in front of us. Even for four, it was a LOT of eel.


Graphic visuals aside, we remained undeterred in our quest to feast on eels and they were put on the charcoal grill with some garlic cloves and carefully grilled up by one of my friends who confidently shared he built up a bit of expertise on grilling eels since his company loves to have company outings over eel quite frequently. 



And a fine job in grilling he did although the rest of us with less experience with grilled eels were surprised at how long it actually took to grill up. I think it must have taken a good 10 minutes for the eels to be fully cooked. But finally they were ready to be consumed and we practically pounced on them as we were so hungry. The aluminum foil placed to the side of the grill is not only used to place your cooked eel slices on but you can give them a basting in the spicy sweet sauce to give it some extra flavor.

But even if spicy isn't your thing there's an array of sauces to eat with your eel according to your preference from a tangy soy sauce, vinegar dip to a simple salt and sesame oil. The eels are quite plump and have a delicate, non-fishy taste to it and should be pleasant enough for even those not so keen on seafood. 



My favorite was, of course, eaten in big old wraps with chives, ssamjang, and a ginger slice all joining plump eel morsels in the lettuce and perilla wrap.


I had to go with a bottle of the local makgeolli and I place an order for the Gyeongju Beobju Ssal Makgeolli (경주법주 쌀막걸리). It's apparently won some sort of award and t'was nice, if nothing unremarkable. 



On a side note, eels are considered stamina food- especially for men- in Korea. The tail of the eel, in particular, is considered especially good at inducing stamina so... if you're in need of stamina....


We placed a second order for our refill and was brought out the same amount. We had to wait the agonizing 10 minutes for it to grill again and by this time all of us found we were getting quite full. We did polish off the second platter of eels but none of us had space for anymore.

Looking through most reviews, it seems the majority of visitors can't get beyond a third refill at most and this is probably because of the sheer amount of eels that's provided for each platter. We noticed only after our meal that you can order a kg of the eels separately for 35,000 won (which is not AYCE) and we realized we should have just gone with 2 or 3 kgs of eels which would have been so much cheaper, and for probably the same amount, than ordering AYCE for each person.


So to put everything in a nutshell- quality, service, everything is excellent at Tongyeong Jangeo Muhan Refill but really, no matter how confident you are in putting away your food, go with ordering the eels ala carte and not in the AYCE. It'll be a far, far, better value for your money!


Tongyeong Jangeo Moohan Refill 
통영장어무한리필
116-18, Yangjeong 2-dong, Busanjin-gu, Busan, Korea
부산광역시 부산진구 양정동 116-18
051-851-5971

One of the most beloved dish of Busan, and also that of the surrounding southern Gyeongsan-do region, is a simple but homely soup dish called "dweji gukbap". Made from stewing various parts of a pig for long hours, it's very simple soup but it's become a sort of soul food for the locals.

Interestingly enough, this dish traces its origins actually to parts of North Korea but when so many of the Northerners were displaced to Busan and the surrounding regions during and after the Korean War, it became a food that's synonymous with the area. I've had my share of dweji gukbap during my many visits to Busan and it's a dish that's taken me by pleasant surprise. Truth be told, the very first time I had it, I did so expecting I wouldn't like it as I expected it to have a strong smell. But I was surprised at how flavorful it was without any off-putting taste or scent and some of my most vivid memory of Busan is enjoying a big, hot bowl of it, piled with chives and just a teeny bit of shrimp jeotgal, in some of Busan's old markets, elbow to elbow with locals.

So I was excited to give this place, called Ssangdoongee Dweji Gukbap (which means Dweji Gukbap Twins) as it was alleged to be one of the first dweji gukbap shops in Busan. As expected from this famed eatery, there was a long line on our arrival and we ended up waiting about 40 minutes in line. It was during this time that I should've seen the warning signs as I noticed many of those waiting in line were non-Busanites like us. But it was too late to turn back by then...


To cope with the usual lines, they have some good sayings put up to placate your restless heart and soul, I suppose.


In addition to having received recognition by both the district and city, it's also acknowledged as a low-sodium restaurant. As for the menu, it's simple and inexpensive: dweju gukbap and naejang gukbap (the stomach) are both 6,000 won each, a boiled meat, aka as "sooyook" baekban is 7,500 won and a boiled meat platter only comes in small and large at 17,000 and 22,000 respectively.

The line moved rather slowly, even for a busy restaurant, and as we got closer to the restaurant we were amazed at one of the contributing factors to the long lines: in between seated patrons inside the restaurant were gaps of seats. In Seoul, this is unheard of in popular restaurants as you'll literally be seated next to, and with, complete strangers so the restaurant can accommodate as many guests as possible. Even after being seated and waiting for our food, the waitress came and began chit chatting with us, even taking a moment to watch a video with us that a friend was showing on his cell phone- all while the wait line outside continued to move at a glacial pace. Such a difference from Seoul life!


As for the food, the side dishes are just kimchi, picked onion, chives, and some sliced garlic and peppers. There's also some shrimp jeotgal- the traditional way to add flavor to your soup.



Our bubbling soups took a few minutes to come out. On first look, the soup looked its part with its characteristic milky-white broth and bits of meat and chopped scallions swimming about.


 I added my rice, chives, and just a bit of shrimp jeotgal and gave it all a mix before taking my first spoonful and... disappointment. I mean, it was all right but the deeper color didn't match in taste unfortunately and seemed to lack the meaty and richer flavors of other gukbap joints. In fact, we all agreed that despite its credentials, Ssangdoongee Dweji Gukbap was the least impressive dweji gukbap we'd had.




And yes, the naejangguk (intestine soup) really has intestine parts in it as confirmed by my friend's order haha.


Perhaps our anticipation was too high but Ssangdoongee Dwejigukbap was certainly not worth the trek out to, nor the wait. There are far, far better dwejigukbap restaurants around Busan.


Ssangdoongee Dweji Gukbap (쌍둥이 돼지국밥)
887-1, Daeyeon 1-dong, Nam-gu, Busan, Korea
부산광역시 남구 대연1동 887-1
051-628-7020

Disappointing gukbap aside, for our only full day in Busan we started off exploring the nearby town of Gamcheon (감천). There's a fascinating history behind this forme shanty-town-turned-current-day-popular-art-village. The town was formed from the ashes of war, political, social, religious unrest and was long disregarded until only recently when its picturesque setting- with its colors, lines, and backdrop against the sea- began attracting hordes of visitors. Reflective of its less affluent roots, the houses all look sort of tossed together in a juxtaposed way- kind of as if you've tossed together a bunch of Lego blocks. So on first glance it isn't so much a striking beauty but one you slowly discover beneath, and within, the intricate alleys and aisles.




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